Showing posts with label El Morro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label El Morro. Show all posts

Friday, May 24, 2024

A Mighty Fortress

In my March 22, 2024 post I wrote about my family's love of history
and about visiting two powerful military sites during the previous twelve months.
I saw the sites as historical bookends,
linking the beginning and end of defensive coastal fortifications and artilleries.
I didn't name the strategic sites, but indicated that I would write about them shortly.

My Dad, the History Major, at Acadia
Acadia University, Wolfville, Nova Scotia, Canada 
Circa 1947
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved

When my original post was published it was flagged 
with a warning for containing sensitive material.
To say I was shocked is an understatement.
I went over and over the post, but I couldn't figure out what was objectionable.

I tried to contact Google to find out what happened,
but I hit a wall and couldn't access any help.  I gave up.

My Mom, Who Encouraged my Love of  Reading About Everything
Acadia University, Wolfville, Nova Scotia, Canada 
1947
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved

So, I'm going to go back to the topic, and I will see what happens.
Fingers crossed, for sure!  

In both instances world powers were struggling for control of a strategic site 
that was a gateway to resources, trade, commerce, and empire.

A Strategic Site Overlooking San Juan Bay
San Juan, Puerto Rico 
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or El Morro as it is commonly referred to, is the first site.
What began in 1539 as a tower and three cannons
on a promontory overlooking the entrance to San Juan Bay
became over the next 250 years a mighty six-level fortress
incorporating the highest military standards and technology of its time.

El Morro from the Air
San Juan, Puerto Rico 


El Morro is considered the oldest Spanish fort in the New World.
Spain held El Morro for 359 years until the US gained
control of it in 1898 during the Spanish American War.
It remained an active US military installation during the first and second world wars.
The US Army retired El Morro in 1961 and turned it over to the National Park Service.
The United Nations declared the fortress and walled city of Old San Juan 
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1983.

Three UNESCO sites protecting San Juan and Puerto Rico:
Fortín San Juan de la Cruz (El Cañuelo - "Small Channel")
Castillo San Felipe del Morro
Castillo de San Cristóbal
April 14, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue. All Rights Reserved





Overlooking the Entrance to San Juan Bay and Fortín San Juan de la Cruz from El Morro
Crossfire between El Morro and Fortín San Juan de la Cruz 
protected San Juan Bay and the interior of Puerto Rico from invaders.
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue. All Rights Reserved


It's one thing to look at the fortress in photographs, drawings, and maps.
It's quite another to wander through the Field of Fire where so many died,
and to touch the walls and walk the floors of the fortress.
You can feel the history and emotions of centuries 
emanating from the grounds and stones surrounding you.    

Field of Fire, or Esplanade, at Castillo San Felipe del Morro
San Juan, Puerto, USA
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved


Historically an esplanade was a large, open area outside a fortress.
It provided clear "fields of fire" for the fortress's guns.
Today the Esplanade is a place where locals come to relax, picnic, and fly kites.

Locals Enjoying a Beautiful Morning on the Esplanade
San Juan, Puerto, USA
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue. All Rights Reserved


The massive fortress was designed to repel attacks by sea,
and over the centuries it successfully blocked every naval assault,
including three British attacks in 1595, 1598, and 1797 and one Dutch in 1625.
During the Spanish-Cuban-American War of 1898, El Morro saw action for the last time.
After the U.S. occupied Puerto Rico in 1898, 
control of all the Spanish-era fortresses passed to the U.S. Army.

To enter El Morro today, you cross over a concrete bridge above the dry moat.
In colonial times the bridge was a drawbridge protecting the eastern side of the fortress.
The dry moat had two purposes, to protect the base of the fort from enemy cannon fire
and to force enemy soldiers to descend before before trying to scale the fortress walls.

The Concrete Bridge and Dry Moat at El Morro




The Entrance to El Morro
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved



To the right of the entrance is the El Morro Lighthouse.
Puerto Rico's first lighthouse was built at El Morro in 1846.
The current lighthouse was built by the U.S. Coast Guard in 1908.
It is only 51 feet high, but it sits on the sixth level of El Morro 
giving it another 140 feet in height.

The El Morro Lighthouse Located on the Ochoa Bastion
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved


When you pass through the entrance, you enter The Plaza de Armas
or Main Plaza on the Fifth Level of El Morro.  
Today the main plaza looks very much like it did when it was completed around 1780.
Here troops drilled and assembled for formal occasions.
Around the plaza are arched casements, large vaulted rooms that contained 
a kitchen, chapel, storage areas, officers’ quarters, and barracks for enlisted men.


The Plaza de Armas or Main Plaza of El Morro
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue. All Rights Reserved





The Plaza de Armas or Main Plaza of El Morro
Information Sign
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved





Capilla de Nuestra Señora de los Navegantes
(Chapel of Our Lady of the Navigators)
This small chapel occupies one of the casements in the main plaza of El Morro.
The arch in a casement provided strength to support gun decks above it
and protection from the concussion of exploding shells.
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue. All Rights Reserved





The Plaza de Armas or Main Plaza on the Fifth Level of El Morro
Here you can see the wellhead where soldiers drew water from three large cisterns under the plaza.
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved


By the early 1500s, Spain had already conquered what are now Mexico and Peru.
These lands had abundant gold, other precious metals, and gems
which the Spanish plundered and mined.
They sent these treasures back to Spain on galleons.

A Spanish Galleon


In order to protect these ships from the English, French and Dutch,
Spain began fortifying important ports along the sea routes.
Because San Juan was the first port encountered by ships entering the Caribbean,
the Spanish Crown recognized that it needed to be fortified.

Initially El Morro consisted of a masonry tower and a water battery with three cannons.
The gunners quickly discovered that the noise and smoke
from firing cannons inside the tower was too much to bear.
Thus began a learning process that spanned centuries. 
After attacks and discoveries of weaknesses, 
El Morro would expand and improve its defensives.

King Philip II ordered the addition of a hornwork and two half-bastions connected by a curtain wall to protect the landward approach to the original tower,
as well as a moat to give more height to the walls and a drawbridge.
The work was completed in 1595.

El Morro in 1891
The curtain, or defensive wall, joins two half bastions on the landward approach to the original tower.
The tower is the circle in the lower left.
Today the bastions are known as the Ochoa Bastion (upper left) and the Austria Bastion (upper right).
They form the sixth level of the fortress that rises over visitors as they approach the entrance to El Morro.
wikipedia (image modified by me ~ see site for license) 



Here you can see the "horns" of the half bastions protecting the entrance to El Morro:
also the dry moat, the cement bridge spanning the moat,
and the bastions and curtain wall of the sixth level (gray)
and the main plaza of the fifth level (orange).



Terry Explores the Bacteria del Carmen on the Fifth Level of El Morro
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue. All Rights Reserved





The El Morro Lighthouse on Level Six of El Morro
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved





The Three Flags Flown at El Morro Today
The Cross of Burgundy ~ The Old Spanish Military Flag Which Was Flown at El Morro from 1539-1785
The United States Flag and the Puerto Rican Flag
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved





Terry Enjoys The View of Old San Juan
from Level Six of El Morro
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved





Cannons on the Main Firing Battery
Level Four of El Morro
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved



The Spanish completed El Morro in 1790.  
Their latest improvements to the fortress included 
3 cisterns under the main plaza that held 216,000 gallons of water
and walls strengthened to 18-40 feet thick.
The main Santa Barbara Battery had 37 cannons 
backed by casement guns at higher and lower levels.
    

Terry Emerges from a Garita or Sentry Box
Level Four of El Morro
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved




The Main Artillery Ramp and Stairs at El Morro
Leading to the Main Battery on Level 4
Soldiers raised and lowered 5-ton cannons on this ramp. 
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved




The Main Artillery Ramp, Guard House, and Walls
Main Battery on Level 4
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved


Terry's and my visit to El Morro was far too short.  
We scrambled to see what we could in less than an hour.
I would love to return to this formidable fortress and spend more time here.

The second strategic site lies on a different side of the Americas and in another ocean.
World War II demonstrated that the time for defensive coastal fortifications 
and artilleries had passed.  They were no longer effective in modern warfare.


For Rain:  Vincent Van Gogh ~ 
I know I have a photo of Vincent van Gogh's Sunflowers from the National Gallery in London, but I can't find it.
  
Sunflowers by Vincent van Gogh 1888
National Gallery
London, United Kingdom



Sunflowers
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
September 12, 2017
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved

Opps!  These Are Coneflowers!



Sunflower and Bee
Butchart Gardens
Brentwood Bay, British Columbia, Canada
September 12, 2017
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue  All Rights Reserved


For Tom:  Aloha ~ A Hawaiian Sunflower! 

Yellow Hibiscus
Honolulu, O'ahu, Hawai'i
January 27,  2024
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue. All Rights Reserved



For Nicole:  Curiosity ~ 
I could find Terry in the National Gallery, but not Vincent.


Terry Views a Lion-Headed Dagger
India, Mughal Dynasty 1650-1700
The National Gallery, London, United Kingdom
September 3, 2015
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue. All Rights Reserved


Have a great weekend! 




Till next time ~
Fundy Blue

My next post will be 
Wednesday, May 31st. 🤞 



On the Bay of Fundy
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


 


Friday, June 23, 2023

Looking for El Morro

The one thing that I absolutely had to see in Old San Juan was the fort.
Not just any fort, but Castillo de San Felipe del Morro, known locally as El Morro.
This intimidating fortress on a promontory at the end of a peninsula guarded 
the entrance to San Juan Bay, San Juan's harbor, 
and the gateway to Spanish possessions in the New World.
And see it I did, in a very fast visit.  I need to go back ~ lol!

Almost There!  Bucket List, For Sure!
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


King Charles V of Spain ordered its construction and work began in 1539
on a small round tower and battery at the base of the promontory (morro).
Over the next two hundred years, day laborers, slaves, prisoners, 
off-duty soldiers, and civilians worked to transform the modest original structure
into the massive, six-level fortification that still stands today.

Castillo de San Felipe del Morro




 A schematic Diagram of El Morro


Terry's and my biggest problem was finding the fortress.  
Pretty funny, eh?

And to top it all off, we overslept, leaving less time to visit
the fortress before we had to board our ship.
Our dark, windowless, quiet room allowed us to sleep, unaware of the passing time.

When we woke up, jumped into our clothes and raced outside, the streets were deserted.
La Factoría, a lively popular bar that rocked until 4:00 am 
just yards from our room at #52 Calle de San José, was silent.
We didn't see a single person, and every place was closed.
We headed down the hill looking for a place where we could get breakfast.

And then we saw an encouraging sight, 
proof that something was open nearby and frequented by locals:

Patiently Waiting (and Hoping for a Bit of Breakfast)
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


We had stumbled upon El Mesón Sandwiches, a Puerto Rican source of pride.
It started as a small diner in Aguadilla in 1972 where Felipe Pérez (Sr.) served up
home-style sandwiches and hot home-style breakfasts.
It has grown into Puerto Rico's largest and fastest-growing restaurant chain.

We were hungry and the food smelled delicious.
I felt sympathy for the dogs patiently waiting in an adjacent area.
They were probably hoping their owners would bring goodies for them.

Terry Orders Breakfast at El Mesón
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved





Delicious!
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved

Fortified with a hearty breakfast we went looking for El Morro.
Some friendly locals set us on the right course:
"It's a bit of a walk, but take that street until it ends at a fountain.
Turn right at the fountain.  Walk until you see a red door. 
Go through the door and walk up the hill to the fort."

"That street" turned out to be Paseo de la Princesa, 
the most beloved promenade in Puerto Rico.  
Dating back to 1853, the esplanade is lined 
with venders, sculptures, small parks, and gardens,
and it hugs the huge 17th century walls that protect 
the southern end of old San Juan.

A Small Playground Beneath the Old City Walls
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved






Jardin del Paseo la Princesa
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved





Paseo de la Princesa
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


Paseo de la Princesa led us to the famous Raices Fountain that commemorates
the 500th anniversary of Spain's "discovery" of the Americas.
Architect Miguel Carlo designed the bronze statues to honor 
Puerto Rico's mixed heritage of African, Spanish and Taino peoples.
Leaping dolphins lead a ship carrying the people out to sea and into a bright future.

Raices Fountain
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved






Raices Fountain
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved






Raices Fountain
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved



A walkway runs past the fountain, below La Fortaleza, 
and along the base of the massive city walls.


Terry Hugging the Base of the Walls
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved






The Walls Beneath La Fortaleza
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


La Fortaleza is the official residence of the governor of Puerto Rico.
It was built between 1533 and 1540 to protect San Juan's harbor.
This is the oldest continuously used executive mansion in the Americas.

La Fortaleza and the City Wall


So I'm walking along this wall and hoping I don't miss the red door
because I'm distracted by work crews and beautiful San Juan Bay.
I had no idea what this red door looked like, 
although Terry did because he had read the guide books.
But he's walking on well ahead of me, having perfected a pace 
that keeps me moving as I take too many photographs.

Hard at Work
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved






Looking Toward the Entrance to San Juan Bay
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


And then I saw The Red Door!  
Not a chance in the world I could miss it,
since it was 16 feet high in a wall that was 20 feet thick!

The "Red Door"
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved





The San Juan Gate
Information Sign
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


The San Juan Gate was the formal or symbolic entrance
to the city from the 1500s through the 1800s. 
Through this gate passed the dignitaries, documents, and money 
to carry out the will of the Spanish Crown in the Americas.
Four other gates within the three-mile wall surrounding the city controlled 
the movement of everyday traffic, materials, and supplies. 

Named for St. John the Baptist, the top of the gate bears the inscription
"Benedictus Oui Venit In Nomine Domini.” 
This means "Welcome those who come in the name of God,"
a testament to Puerto Rico's colonial, Catholic, and Spanish heritage. 
Only the San Juan Gate remains today.

Benedictus Oui Venit In Nomine Domini
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved





The View to the Left as We Walk Through the San Juan Gate
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


Beyond the gate was a lovely neighborhood of colonial homes 
lining blue cobblestone streets.

Colonial Homes and Cobble Stone Streets
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
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Looking Back Toward La Fortaleza and the City Wall Under Repair
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved






Feral Cats, as in So Many Other Places
April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


And finally, there it was:  Castillo de San Felipe del Morro!

April 15, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


To be continued ...
Including the fortress in this post would have been way to much!

And for Nicole's FFO I have a face that has nothing 
to do with San Juan, fortresses, or traveling:

A Mule Deer Along Piney Creek
in Her Scruffy Spring Coat
May 8, 2023
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved

Have a great weekend!




Till next time ~
Fundy Blue

  My next post will be soon! 🤞



On the Bay of Fundy
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved