Friday, October 19, 2018

Malvasia dell'Adriatico Mar, or Adriatico Mar for Short

What do you think of when you think of Venice?
Canals, masquerades, gondoliers, art?

Gondoliers row under the bridge where
Fondamenta Condulmer crosses over Rio Del Magazen.
Venice, Italy
May 22, 2016
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


I think of Malvasia dell'Adriatico Mar, or Adriatico Mar for short.
It's a friendly locals osteria serving wine and simple food
located in the Dorsoduro sestiere (neighborhood) of Venice.

Adriatico Mar is located on the canal
at the wooden bridge on Calle Crosera at Dorsoduro 3771.
Salizada S. Pantlon is the street leading to the other end of the bridge. 
Venice, Italy
September 12, 2018
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved



Yes, of course, like most people, when I think of Venice,
I also think of its unique canals, masquerades, gondoliers, and art;
but it's Adriatico Mar that I remember with fondness and pleasure,
and it was Adriatico Mar that brought my husband and me back to Venice this fall.

For me, traveling is all about making connections with people in other places,
and we will never forget the friendliness of Francesco and Sira,
the owners of Adriatico Mar whom we met in the spring of 2016.


Francesco (left) and Andrea discuss wines with a customer.
Malvasia dell'Adriatico Mar
Venice, Italy
September 12, 2018
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved  


My husband Terry, a determined travel sleuth, learned of Adriatico Mar
while researching our first trip to Italy in May 2016.
He found it well-reviewed on Trip Advisor,
even though it had opened only eleven months earlier.



My Travel Sleuth finalizes his plans for the next day.
Malvasia dell'Adriatico Mar
Venice, Italy
September 21, 2018
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


If you've wandered around Venice, then you know
what a labyrinth its canals and streets form.
We knew that our Hotel Falier on Salizada S. Pantalon
stood in the vicinity of Adriatico Mar,
but as we tramped all over from the Basilica del Frari,
to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, to the Chiesa di San Pantalon,
the osteria's location escaped us.


Hotel Falier on Salizada S. Pantalon
Venice, Italy
May 22, 2016
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved



We must have crossed this wooden bridge over the Rio de S. Pantalon
a half a dozen times in both directions.


Wooden Bridge over Rio de S. Pantalon
Venice, Italy
May 22, 2016
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


Then one rainy morning, Terry stopped in front of a nondescript open door
at the foot of the wooden bridge and asked, "Could this be it?"

"Let's go in and ask," I replied.  "If it isn't,
maybe someone can tell us where the osteria is."


Calle Crosera, 3771
Venice, Italy
May 23, 2016
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved



"Is this Adriatico Mar?" Terry asked as he entered a warm, white-walled space
with dark wooden beams spanning the ceiling
and a scattering of benches, tables, and chairs on the floor.

"Yes it is," answered a bespeckled man, who stepped out from behind the bar
and shook my husband's hand.  "I'm Francesco, the owner."

"We've been looking for this place for days!
I'm Terry, and this is my wife, Louise."

"Well, I'm glad you found us!  Welcome, welcome!
What brings you to Adriatico Mar?"

"I've read that this is a friendly place with good food and reasonable prices,
so I thought we'd check it out," Terry replied.

"You've come to the right place.  Would you like something to eat or drink?"

"Yes!" we both answered at once.

"I'd love some hot coffee for starters," I said.

"Make that two," Terry added.

"Have a seat," Francesco said, ushering us to a table.  
"Americano, cappuccino... ?"


"Cappuccino!" we chorused.


It felt great to sink into a chair and get out of the rainy, chilly weather.
While Francesco hustled up cappuccinos, I had a chance to look around
and take in the ambiance of Adriatico Mar.

I loved the old wooden beams, perfect in a building centuries old,
and the door near our table opening out to a jetty on the canal.
The interior of the osteria was tiny, but its kitchen, bar, and seating area
were efficiently laid out, and the spaces were tastefully decorated.


A window looks out on the canal.
Adriatico Mar, Venice, Italy
May 23, 2016
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


"How about something to eat?" Francesco said,
as he placed two frothy cappuccinos on our table.

"What would you recommend?" asked Terry.

"That's our menu," Francesco said, pointing to a blackboard on the wall behind us.  
"We have sandwiches, salads, meats, and cheeses.  
Our fresh vegetables are local, from the islands in our Lagoon;
and our meats and cheeses come from farms and producers around Italy,
places I know and have visited."


Terry enjoys his cappuccino.
Adriatico Mar, Venice, Italy
September 23, 2018
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


"I don't even know where to begin," I said, eyeing a display case
stuffed with an array of savory snacks, whole cheeses, and cured meats.
"Those meats and cheeses look scrumptious."

"Would you like me to make you a cheese and meat board?" 

"That would be awesome, Francesco.
After a morning filled with Renaissance art and sculptures,
my brain is too tired to make decisions," I said.


"We'll share it," Terry added.


"Leave it to me!" exclaimed Francesco,
heading behind the bar to the tiny kitchen space to prepare our lunch.

We gratefully relaxed, sipping our coffee and listening to the soft jazz music.
We had a little time, because almost everything at Adriatico Mar
is sliced and diced on demand.


"That's not food!" I said when Francesco placed a board
loaded with with vegetables, meat, and cheese in front of us.
"That's art!"


"That looks so good," Terry said.


Edible Art
Adriatico Mar, Venice, Italy
May 23, 2016
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


"And bring us wine, please!" I added.


"Red or white?"


"Red!"


"Light, bold, something in between?"


"Definitely bold!"


"Bold," Terry agreed.


Francesco brought us two glasses filled with red, rich, full-bodied wine
and said, "Let me tell you about what you are going to eat and drink!"


A Cooled Selection
Adriatico Mar, Venice, Italy
September 22, 2018
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


There is no way I can remember all the details he shared;
but Francesco knows his food and wine, and he takes great pride 
in the quality of his fresh, organic, and authentic Italian wares.

It was a quiet, late morning in the osteria, and we were Francesco's only customers,
so he reached for a framed map of Italy on the wall
and sat down with us to spin a delectable tale
about the sources and histories of our food and wine.


Francesco's Storytelling Map 
 Adriatico Mar, Venice, Italy
September 22, 2018
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


We were delighted with this gregarious Venetian
and his passion for hospitality and excellent food and drink;
so we kept returning and returning, in 2016 and 2018.


Sometimes people packed the small osteria and crowded the jetty on the canal.
Plates of food balanced on knees or passed overhead from person to person.
Wine flowed by the bottle or glass, and laughter and conversation drowned the jazz.


At times like that Francesco, Sira, or Andrea would wave and smile, 
until they had a chance to stop by and speak to us briefly.
They made a point of connecting with all the customers,
helping them to choose a wine and perhaps an appetizing snack or small meal.
  
Other times we relaxed in an oasis of calm and warmth
and traded life stories and adventures big and small.
Not every customer had two legs!



 

Canine Visitors
Adriatico Mar, Venice, Italy
2016 and 2018
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved



Conversations on the Jetty
Adriatico Mar, Venice, Italy
May 24, 2016
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved


I have a jumble of memories of this special place in Venice:
delicious food, smooth wines, strong coffee, friendly locals, 
engaging conversation, and chilling on the jetty.









More Conversations on the Jetty
Adriatico Mar, Venice, Italy
2016 and 2018
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved

But most of all, I have fond memories of Francesco and Sira.
If we're lucky enough to return to Italy, for sure I'm going to Venice,
and I know right where we're headed after we drop our bags:
Malvasia dell'Adriatico Mar!



To Hospitality and Friendship!
Adriatico Mar, Venice, Italy
September 22, 2018
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved






Till next time ~
Fundy Blue


Crossing Petit Passage to Tiverton
Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia, Canada
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved





Notes:
1.  Osteria:
     All the different names for Italian eateries can be confusing.  An osteria, as explained
     to us by Francesco, is a small, bar like establishment that serves simple food and a
      smaller selection of wines and other drinks.  It typically does not have a full kitchen to prepare
      hot dishes like pasta, although it may have small appliances like a panini press to make hot
      paninis.  The most important characteristic of an osteria, says Francesco, is its focus on
      hospitality, an aspect he takes very seriously.  Authentic, traditional osterias are disappearing in
      Italy and being replaced by fast, efficient, tourist-money-oriented businesses.  Adriatico Mar
      "is old Venice, before the tourists, a true osteria that hasn't sold its soul for money," one local
      empathically told me.
       

For Map Lovers Like Me:


Neighborhoods of Venice





      Google Maps 2018



Location of Adriatico Mar




Salizada S. Pantalon leads to the wooden bridge
over Rio De S. Pantalon.
Adriatico Mar is at the other end of the bridge.
Venice, Italy
May 22, 2016
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved



Arrivederci!
 Adriatico Mar, Venice, Italy
September 23, 2018
© M. Louise (MacBeath) Barbour/Fundy Blue
All Rights Reserved





11 comments:

  1. The canals are always what comes to my mind when it comes to Venice.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Happy Friday morning, Adam! The canals are amazing! I'll never forget the moment we stepped outside Venezia Santa Lucia Railroad Station for the first time and the busy Grand Canal was steps away, and the Scalzi Bridge loaded with people arched over the water to our left. Gondola, ferries, motor boats were plying up and down the canal, and gorgeous, ancient buildings and churches lined the fondaments. "Oh my God, Terry! It's really real, and it's just like the pictures I've seen! I can't believe it's real!" It was a spectacular moment in my life. I hope that you and Daisy have a great weekend!

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  2. The canals are what first pop in here too. But it sure sounds like you found one of those hidden gems of a spot. Can't go wrong allowing the four legged kind a little snack too. Knowing about your business and being super passionate about it can sure make customer service all the better as well.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey, Cat Hatt! I can't say that I saw cats on leashes having a sip of water or milk at Adriatico Mar ~ LOL! But the sunny windowsills and jetty would be a great spot for a cat to curl. I'm sure Orlin and Cassie would be welcomed! Have a good one, my friend!

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  3. What a charming place. No wonder it's always overflowing with people. Since everything was fresh and organic, I bet the food was heavenly.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, Alex! The food was heavenly! We never knew what to expect because there was no fixed menu. Whatever appeared on plates and boards depended upon whatever was fresh and in season on that day. Francesco could tell us the origin of every food and wine. He belongs to a nationwide group of Italian osteria owners and meets with them at conferences to discuss wholesome, products, fostering hospitality, and the business involved in running an authentic traditional osteria. Francesco travels throughout Italy to track down delicious food and wine. I can't wait to return to Venice to see Francesco and Sira again. I have absolutely fallen in love with Venice, and to think that Terry dragged me there kicking and screaming the first time ~ but that's the topic for another blog post. I hope you and your wife have a great weekend! I hope she hasn't sat on Mini-Alex! LOL!

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  4. It sounds like an absolutely delightful place, Louise!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It is Debra, and if you and your Rare One make it to Venice, I hope you visit Adriatico Mar. Venice isn't that far from bella Florence, another fabulous Italian city that I know you love. By the way, I was going to describe Venice's maze of canals and streets as a "warren." Then you and "labyrinth" popped into my mind. "Labyrinth" is my nod to you. If I had had a glass of wine at that moment, I would have raised it to you ~ instead I had to make due with water. Have a great weekend!

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  5. Hi Louise!!! :)))
    I LOVED THIS POST!! Oh, I've never been to Italy, but you make me long to go...that cheese and meat board WAS a work of art, thank you for sharing!!! :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, Rain! I'm so glad that you enjoyed this post. It took me a while to write it. I do hope that one day you get to travel abroad, especially to Italy. It's my favorite European country so far! I'll be by soon. I'm still playing major catchup ~ the downside to traveling; but it's worth it! Sending you a big hug!

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  6. Greetings Louise. I'm so glad you enjoyed your visit to Venice, Italy. The place you found sure sounds like a good spot to visit. Glad you enjoyed your food and wine with kindly hospitality. Blessings to you. Love love, Andrew.

    ReplyDelete

Thank you for your comments! I appreciate the time and energy you put into making them very much.